2/11/2024 0 Comments Sigma 150 600mm f5 6.3 dg os hsm![]() On the one hand, the product concept of the SIGMA 150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Sports is to achieve the best optical and action-capture performance to meet the requirements of professional photographers. The first hyper-telephoto zoom lens from our Contemporary line for better usability. The same focal ranges for different purposes. So changing your camera body is another way to add some crucial reach, if needed.The Sigma Corporation is pleased to announce the new SIGMA 150-600mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Contemporary. ![]() So a 300mm lens would become 450mm on a Nikon or Sony APS-C (with their 1.5x crop factor), or 480mm on a Canon APS-C (as they have a 1.6x crop) or 600mm on an Olympus or Panasonic Micro Four Thirds camera (with their 2x crop). ![]() One final thing to note: it's worth remembering that you can extend your reach further by using a camera body with an APS-C or cropped sensor camera body, too. However, if you own one and find the image quality not quite razor sharp, or the autofocus not fast enough, or the narrow apertures and depth of field too restricting, then hopefully now you understand why that is – and which lenses to look at upgrading to. Of course, you're free to make your own mind up and buy whatever kit works best for you – and if you love using your 150-600mm lens then please don't let me stop you. If you look on the second-hand market they're pretty comparable in price, too, especially for older variants of these lenses for your specific camera mount. I'd never be one to stifle innovation, and I can appreciate that these 150-600mm lenses do have their merits: they're great for astro work, shooting the moon or telephoto landscapes where you don't need a fast aperture.īut I've seen these lenses become popular with sports and wildlife photographers, and I personally think the money would be better put towards 70-200mm f/2.8 or a 300mm f/2.8 (or even f/4 versions if you're on a tight budget). A narrower aperture of f/5-6.3 makes it much more difficult to blur backgrounds into a diffused wall of bokeh, which helps your subject stand out and will make your images look more professional.Ī 70-200mm f/2.8, like this Sigma, is one of my favorite lenses for wildlife because it's light, has incredible image quality, super-fast focusing and that all-important fast aperture (Image credit: Future) While this is problematic on its own, as a smaller aperture with less light flow results in slower shutter speeds or boosting the ISO (which can degrade image quality), the main issue is depth of field. In fact, f/5 is 1⅔ of a stop slower than f/2.8, and f/6.3 is 2⅓ slower. Both these maximum aperture options are considerably slower than a 70-200mm or 300mm f/2.8. The vast majority of 150-600mm lenses have a variable aperture of f/5-6.3 this means at the widest focal length of 150mm the maximum available aperture is f/5, closing down to f/6.3 at the 600mm mark. Prime lenses in particular are the crème de la crème of camera optics with no zoom mechanism you have to "zoom" with your feet, but the advantage is that manufacturers can finesse and fine-tune the image quality and autofocusing so that they're both razor-sharp and lightning-fast.įinally, let's talk about apertures. The reason that a fast 70-200mm lens or a 300mm f/2.8 are my favorite for wildlife is because of image quality, autofocus speed and the super-wide f/2.8 aperture. ![]() The autofocus was also snappy and the image quality was razor sharp (Image credit: Future) Taken with a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, the background has been turned into a beautiful bokeh. I can also see them being useful for sports, where you're unable to physically get closer to your subject. I will, however, concede that I can see them being useful for astrophotography shots of the moon, nebula or galaxies where it's impossible to physically move closer to the subject. Most of my favorite wildlife shots have been taken with either a 70-200mm f/2.8 or a 300mm f/2.8 lens, so I've rarely needed a 600mm focal length. Also the more zoom and reach your lens has, the worse the image quality typically is – that's one of the reasons why 300mm, 400mm and 600mm prime lenses (with a fixed focal length) demand such a high price. The issue with photographing an animal some distance away is that you may start to pick up haze, which reduces image quality. While 150-600mm lenses do make it possible to achieve a shot of a distant bird, for example, I believe that better pictures could be taken by improving your bushcraft skills and getting closer to your subject with a shorter focal length zoom (or setting up a wildlife hide and letting the wildlife come to you instead). A lot of photographers want a super-long telephoto lens to bring distant subjects closer, to achieve a frame-filling image. Let's start with why would you need a 600mm lens to begin with. Sigma broke new ground when it launched the world’s first 150-600mm zoom lens back in 2014 (Image credit: Sigma)
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